Just 100 years ago, two
architectural jewels opened at the Grand Canyon. They are the 95 room El
Tovar Hotel and the Hopi House gift shop. Both reflect the foresight and
entrepreneurship of Fred Harvey. An immigrant from England, Fred
Harvey’s business ventures eventually included restaurants, hotels,
newsstands and dining cars on the Sante Fe Railroad. The partnership
with the Atchison, Topeka and Sante Fe introduced many new tourists to
the American Southwest by making rail travel comfortable and
adventurous. Employing many Native-American artists, the Fred Harvey
Company also collected indigenous examples of basketry, beadwork,
Kachina dolls, pottery and textiles.
Fred
Harvey arrived in the United States in 1850 at 15 years of age. His
first job was a “pot walloper”, a dishwasher in New York City at the
Smith and McNeill Café. In 1859, he married 17 year-old Barbara Sarah
Mottas. While the Civil War was bad for restaurants (and Confederates),
it was good for the railroad business. Harvey made a career change and
worked for railroads with travel opportunities for 20 years all over the
United States. He learned first-hand what travelers in the West had to
endure: uneatable dry biscuits, greasy ham and weak coffee. He even
traveled on the Hannibel & St. Joseph known as the “Horrible & Slow
Jolting”. After rejection by the Burlington Railroad, Harvey struck a
deal with Charles Morse, president of the Santa Fe Railway. With only a
handshake to seal their agreement, the two companies began a long and
fruitful partnership.
The travelers of that era moved through Chicago on a slow journey
westward on hard board seats in overcrowded crude coaches. At a time
when most railroad food was poor and even inedible, Fred Harvey provided
appetizing and affordable meals in comfortable dining quarters. He
opened his first railroad restaurant in Topeka, Kansas in 1876 where
good food, spotless dining rooms and courteous service brought booming
business.
The Santa Fe Railway provided the buildings for the Harvey
restaurants where all of the passenger trains would stop twice daily for
meals. The railroad carried all the produce and supplies needed by the
Harvey restaurants including transporting the dirty laundry. Fred Harvey
hired, trained and supervised all personnel and provided for food and
service. Harvey’s policy was “maintenance of standards, regardless of
cost.” He believed that profits would grow if the food and service were
excellent. “Meals by Fred Harvey” became the slogan of the Sante Fe
Railway. To maintain this excellence, he hired and trained girls of the
finest character as waitresses, the famous “Harvey Girls”.
Harvey Girls
Harvey placed ads in Eastern and Midwestern newspapers that read:
“Wanted, young women of good character, attractive and intelligent, 18
to 30 years of age as waitresses in Harvey Eating Houses in the West.
Good wages with room and meals furnished.” Harvey Girls were trained to
high standards of prompt and courteous service. They were the key to
serving hundreds of passengers in about 20 minutes…the average length of
time a train would need for servicing every four hours. Their story is
unique in American history. Only white women who were hired as Harvey
Girls. There were no black women and only a few Hispanic and Indian
women who ever served as waitresses. European immigrant women were
apparently acceptable. Minority workers, male and female, worked in the
Harvey kitchens & hotels where they served as maids, dishwashers and
pantry girls. Harvey had no shortage of applicants. It is estimated that
a hundred thousand women applied from 1883 until the 1960s.
Harvey Girls all wore the same uniform, outfits befitting a nun: a
long-sleeved black dress with a stiff “Elsie” collar, black shoes, black
stockings and hairnets. The company furnished a full white wrap-around
apron so stiffly starched that it had to be pinned to a corset. Harvey
Girls wore no jewelry, no makeup and chewed no gum. The lived in
dormitories where they were closely supervised by their manager (or
manager’s wife), and curfews were strictly enforced in the early years.
They were looked after as carefully as boarding school students in
female seminaries in the East. They worked very hard and their
eight-hour-a-day shifts were often split to conform to train schedules.
They were told what to wear, where to live, whom to date and what time
to go to bed. When the Harvey Girls were recruited in the early years,
they were asked not to marry for at least a year.
The combination of good food served in a fine dining atmosphere with
imported linen, china and silver created a distinctive contrast to the
typical eating establishments in turn-of-the century small towns. The
hope of catching the eye of one of the Harvey Girls no doubt kept many a
poor farmer, rancher, and railroader coming back to dine again and
again.
One of the reasons for the Harvey Houses’ success was their ability
to serve fresh, high quality meat, seafood, and produce at remote
locations across the Southwest. Trains would deliver beef from Kansas
City, seafood and produce from southern California year-round.
Harvey Service
Harvey House workers were able to handle large numbers of passengers
in a short amount of time because the brakeman on the train would get
menu preferences from the passengers and that information would be
teletyped ahead to the Harvey House cooks. When the train pulled into
the station and the passengers began to get off the train, a
white-coated Harvey House staffer would hit a brass gong which stood
outside the entrance to the restaurant. This let passengers know
instantly where to come, and the Harvey Girls were ready to serve them.
When Fred Harvey died in 1901, his company had grown to 15 hotels, 47
restaurants, and 30 dining car operations along the Santa Fe line. By
1912, under the leadership of Fred Harvey’s sons Byron and Ford, there
were more than sixty-five eating houses on the Sante Fe and Frisco
railroad lines, a dozen large hotels and sixty dining cars in the Harvey
system. They employed about five thousand people, half of whom were
women. The company continued in existence until 1968 when Harvery’s
grandsons sold out to AMFAC.
Harvey operations at Union Stations in Cleveland, Kansas City, St.
Louis, Chicago and Los Angeles included newsstands, gift shops featuring
Indian jewelry and weavings, barber shops, liquor stores, private dining
rooms, restaurants, coffee shops, cafeteria, haberdashery, candy and
fruit stands, miniature department store, cocktail lounges and soda
fountains. Harvey was among the first to market its own name–brand
“designer” goods: Fred Harvey hats, shirts, shaving cream, candy,
playing cards, even Harvey Special Blend whiskey. Except for the
prohibition years, Harvey sold exclusively a Scotch distilled by Ainslie
& Heilbron in Glasgow. As a forerunner to Starbucks, Harvey packaged its
own select coffee for public sale in 1948. The blend was already famous
among Sante Fe travelers and Harvey sold 7,000 pounds in the first two
weeks. The press named him “Civilizer of the West” and said “he made the
desert blossom with beefsteak and pretty girls.”
Harvey Hotels
The Harvey company built luxurious resort hotels within sightseeing
distance of major western attractions in national parks like the Grand
Canyon and the Petrified Forest. Architect Mary Elizabeth Jane Colter
(1889-1958) was Harvey’s prime architect and interior designer from 1902
to 1948. She was a pioneer female architect who designed hotels, train
stations, restaurants and gift shops with a brilliant use of Native
American and Hispanic art and artifacts. The famous Western writer Frank
Walters wrote, “For years, an incomprehensible woman in pants, she rode
horseback through the Four Corners making sketches of prehistoric ruins,
studying details of construction, the composition of globes and washes.
She could teach masons how to lay adobe bricks and plasterers how to mix
washes.” She spent almost her whole long career working for the Fred
Harvey Company and the Sante Fe Railway.
Before Harvey, there were no other clean hotels out west, only
saloons or public rooms with cots. In 1870, Harvey built the Clifton
Hotel in Florence, Kansas. The Clifton resembled a fine English home
with fountains and candelabra in the surrounding garden and luxurious
guest accommodations inside including an elegant dining room. At the
turn of the century, another Harvey House of equal beauty was the
Bisonte Hotel in Hutchinson, Kansas followed by the Sequoyah in Syracuse
and El Vaquero in Dodge City, all built in Spanish Mission style. The
first Harvey House hotel in Emporia, Kansas served such celebrities as
Shirley Temple, Will Rogers, Jackie Cooper and Gloria Swanson.
The chaotic Kansas frontier included a transient cowtown population
of cowboys and herd bosses, cattle-selling Texans, prostitutes and
saloon-buffs. Harvey even built the Arcade Hotel in “bloody Newton, the
wickedest town in the West”, after the cattle industry moved to Dodge
City. Later, Harvey moved his district headquarters to Newton from
Kansas City including construction of a major dairy, an ice plant, meat
locker-rooms, a creamery, a poultry feeding station and produce plant, a
carbonating plant for bottling soda pop and a modern steam laundry. By
1921, Newton’s central laundry cleaned four million pieces a year.
As the Santa Fe Railway moved across Kansas to Colorado and to New
Mexico, Oklahoma and Texas, Harvey Houses opened every hundred miles or
so. New Mexico was the home of sixteen, five of which were among the
most beautiful in the system: the Montezuma and Castaneda in Las Vegas
(NM), La Fonda in Sante Fe, the Alvarado in Albuquerque, El Navajo in
Gallup and El Ortiz in Lamy.
Each of these hotels was unique but perhaps none more so than the
long-forgotten Montezuma in Las Vegas, New Mexico. An enormous
castle-like structure, built adjacent to hot mineral springs, it was the
largest wood frame building in the country with 270 rooms and an
eight-story tower. Its connected spa-bathhouses served five hundred
people a day and competed with the finest health resorts in the United
States and Europe. After it burned to the ground in 1884, Harvey and the
Santa Fe immediately rebuilt the million dollar hotel. This second
structure also suffered a serious fire and was again replaced in 1899.
After Harvey’s El Tovar opened at the Grand Canyon, the Montezuma closed
in 1903.
From 1901 through 1935, the Harvey Company and the Sante Fe built
twenty three hotels of which only the following are still in operation:
El Tovar and the Bright Angel Lodge in the Grand Canyon, Arizona and La
Fonda in Sante Fe, New Mexico.
In 1944, Metro-Goldwyn-Meyer made a movie called “The Harvey Girls”
based on a novel by Samuel Hopkins Adams. The musical film featured Judy
Garland, Preston Foster, Angela Lansbury and Cyd Charisse. It had songs
such as “The Atchison, Topeka and the Santa Fe,” “Wishing on a Load of
Hay” and “In the Valley Where the Evening Sun Goes Down,” Naturally, the
movie idealized an unrealistic image of the Harvey Girls but did stress
the civilizing influence of the Harvey Houses and the Sante Fe Railroad.
Will Rogers wrote about the Harvey Girls:
“In the early days, the traveler fed on the buffalo. For doing so,
the buffalo got his picture on the nickel. Well, Fred Harvey should
have his picture on one side of the dime and one of his waitresses
with her arms full of delicious ham and eggs on the other side,
‘cause they have kept the West supplied with food and wives.”
This article is excerpted from my book: “Great Hoteliers: Pioneers of
the Hotel Industry” to be published at the end of 2007.
Stanley
Turkel, MHS, ISHC operates his hotel consulting office as a sole
practitioner specializing in franchising issues, asset
management and litigation support services. Turkel’s clients are
hotel owners and franchisees, investors and lending
institutions. Turkel serves on the Board of Advisors and
lectures at the NYU Tisch Center for Hospitality, Tourism and
Sports Management. He is a member of the prestigious
International Society of Hospitality Consultants. His
provocative articles on various hotel subjects have been
published in the Cornell Quarterly, Lodging Hospitality, Hotel
Interactive, Hotel Online, Hotel & Motel Management, AAHOA
Lodging Business, Bottomline, New York Times, Travel & Leisure,
etc. If you need help with a hotel operations or franchising
problem such as encroachment/impact, termination/liquidated
damages or litigation support, don’t hesitate to call
917-628-8549 or email
stanturkel@aol.com.
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